The thing about any “best of” Brooklyn food list is this: the restaurant landscape changes so often here, so many new openings and/or menus changing all the time, that even comprehensively researched and confidently delivered surveys and rankings of burgers published less than a year ago could always use an update.
So even though I stand firm behind all nine burgers I hyped just last September, here are eight more that have hit the scene since then (or that I was reminded of in the interim), all of which are just as good, and sometimes even better, than the OGs. Brooklyn, it’s time to get eating.
Gus’s beef and pork burger, $23 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Gus’s
215 Union St.
When he first opened this comfortable neighborhood spot, chef Chris McDade didn’t want it to be known only as a burger place. So he kept the sandwich as a “bar-only” option. But people sitting at tables saw what was going on and started requesting it, which is how Gus’s burger became a “secret” menu item. Then McDade realized that was ridiculous, and now it’s on the menu, available to everyone always, and it’s glorious. Just a mammoth, loosely packed pork and beef patty with melted cheddar, sweet pickles, onions, and, what really differentiates this beauty, a biting dijonnaise sauce. A total local winner.
The Sunshine burger, $14 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Toad Style
93 Ralph Ave.
Vegan “fast-food” pioneer Toad Style is celebrating its tenth anniversary on Ralph Avenue this year, and I’m thrilled to report their burgers (all vegan, obviously) are better than ever. The patties—made from lentils, mushrooms, and oats—are well-seasoned and hold up nicely with whatever toppings you choose. My personal favorite is the Sunshine Burger, with avocado, cashew dill “chz,” and sweet chili mustard on a pretzel bun. But everything’s good here, so follow your cravings. Definitely pair with the thick and creamy pickle soup, though.
The Decker classic, $15.50 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Three Decker Diner
695 Manhattan Ave.
Gavin Compton and chef Eduardo Sandoval’s revitalization of Manhattan Avenue’s venerable (est. 1945) Three Decker Diner is definitely one of Brooklyn’s great food-related success stories of the past few years. Every dish in every part of the novella-length menu has bigger flavors, better ingredients, and more love. The burgers, thank god, are no exception, from the “crazy” ones like the pizza burger and the chili cheeseburger to my go-to Decker Classic, a juicy, six-ounce, straight-up perfectly satisfying diner burger.
The Junior’s burger, $22 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
JR & Son
575 Lorimer St.
In other big, successful revamp of a North Brooklyn institution news, last May the team behind the new Kellogg’s (talk about great revamps!) gave us JR & Son, with an exciting new menu from chef Patricia Vega and old-school clubhouse vibes from Nico Arze and Matthew Maddy. There are tons of good things to eat in the 90-year-old space—the fiery chicken parm is a bird for the ages, and pastry chef’s Amanda Perdomo rainbow cookie layer cake is a must. But if you just want to sit at the bar and grab a quick dinner and a drink or two, the towering Junior’s Burger, perhaps with a side of Vega’s Thai-spiced bacon, really hits the spot.
The classic double, $9.95 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Debbie’s Burgers
192 Seigel St.
Brooklyn’s newest burger joint (it’s only been open a couple of weeks) is also one of the best. Located in a garage on a Bushwick side street, Debbie’s has like six things on the menu. Four of them are cheeseburgers, and all of them kick ass. Owned and operated by Lina Kulchinsky and James Curtwright, a couple of food pros (who also run Sigmund’s Pretzels), the lighting is lavender, the ordering is via kiosk, the seating is plentiful, and the burgers—prepared smash-style—are gloriously gloppy. Get the one with chili (you’ll need a fork) if you really want to go to town.
The bistro smash, $12 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Disco Birdies
355 Franklin Ave.
The menu at Disco Birdies, Matt Diaz’s latest Franklin Avenue food-and-booze operation (he already has three other such businesses on the block), is, as the name would imply, dominated by fried chicken. Both the bird sandwich and bird nuggets are delicious here. But maybe the best thing at Disco Birdies is the spectacular double-patty Bistro Smash, a glorious, mustard infused mess that hits the table drowning in a zippy orange sauce. Get it with a bottle of $75 champagne, plus a platter of caviar-topped fries, and you have a killer date-night idea.
The Viking burger (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Lundy’s
44 Beard St.
Yet another deftly-handled reincarnation of a Brooklyn icon! Last winter, Sandra Nicholas and Mark Snyder opened a new version of the legendary Sheepshead Bay seafood palace Lundy’s, this time in Red Hook, taking over the space Rocky Sullivan’s, still another BK classic. The menu here features several Lundy’s oceanic originals—the clam bisque is first rate—but if you want to go more turf than surf with your order, the fat, juicy Viking Burger definitely does the trick. And while you’re there, don’t skip Lundy’s famous Huckleberry Pie.
Roman burger, $24 (Photo by Scott Lynch)
Little Fino
111 N 12th St., inside the William Vale Hotel
I don’t usually get too excited about a hotel restaurant hang, but the outdoor space at the William Vale’s newish Little Fino is so comfortable and chill, and chef Anthony Ricco’s “cacio e pepe style” Roman Burger is just so good, I’ve been scheming how to get back ever since I feasted here a couple of months ago. Served on a homemade roll, this remarkably dense dry-aged beef patty comes smothered in fonduta, then topped with a pecorino schmear and a ton of black pepper. It’s a compact creation that really packs a wallop, and well worth wading through the Kent Avenue day-drinkers to get your hands on one.
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